In the early morning, Kathmandu exudes a special charm as the city slowly awakens, offering a peaceful atmosphere before the hustle and bustle sets in. It’s an ideal time to take a leisurely stroll through the streets or enjoy a cup of chai while admiring the local courtyards or durbar squares.

After breakfast, you have the option to explore the Kathmandu Valley at your own pace or with the assistance of a knowledgeable English-speaking guide and a private jeep for transportation. The valley is home to numerous famous sights, each offering unique insights into the history and significance of the region.

In the evening, venture out to one of the city’s excellent eateries for a delightful dinner experience. Alternatively, your specialist can arrange a home-cooked dinner with a local family, providing an authentic taste of Nepali hospitality and cuisine. It’s a wonderful way to immerse yourself in the local culture and create lasting memories.

Leave Kathmandu early and drive first to Besisahar. After lunch, change to a four-wheel drive vehicle for the rugged journey to Koto. The road can be almost as challenging for passengers as for drivers, but it is incredibly scenic! It travels along the old Annapurna Circuit trek route, through amazing gorges and past stunning waterfalls. Arrive in Koto in time for dinner.

Leaving Meta early, you’ll cross the river and enter the remote Nar and Phu valleys, which are less developed compared to the nearby Annapurna Circuit. The trek takes you through beautiful forests, past small caves, and pilgrims’ rest spots. As you emerge from a narrow canyon, the trail passes under a wide waterfall, where the woods thin out and the views expand. The final stretch involves a steep climb with stunning vistas of the surrounding snowy peaks. Meta lies on an open plain and has a few simple yet clean tea houses that offer good meals.

As you leave Meta, colorful Tibetan chortens begin to appear, and the trail offers views of the Nar Phedi Monastery. After ninety minutes of hiking through canyons, you’ll reach a monolith marking the steep climb to Phu. Here, you’ll glimpse the villages, an old dzong, and two ruined forts. Before crossing into Phu, a line of chortens brightens the landscape. After resting, visit the Tashi Lhakhang Gompa to pay respects to Lama Karma Sonam Rimpoche, who came to Nepal with the Dalai Lama in 1959.

Cliffside trails around Phu

Due to the high altitude, it’s good to spend an acclimatization day in Phu. Explore the tiny alleyways of the town or hike up to HimlungHimal base camp. Phu itself is an interesting village, and a day is well spent sitting with the villagers as they spin their yak and sheep wool, pound mustard seeds into a paste for oil, or go about their other daily chores.

For an extra challenge, the hike up to HimlungHimal base camp takes you through a glacial valley. The 7,125 m. peak was recently opened for climbing. On the trail up you will see herds of blue sheep skillfully clambering up the steep cliffs. The return trip takes about four to five hours.

Trekkers on the way to Nar

Retrace the route back down towards Meta, but turn off at the Nar Phedi monastery, which will be your accommodation for the night. In fact, the monastery is all that Nar Phedi consists of!

The rooms are neat and clean and the nuns are extremely welcoming. Join them in the kitchen and watch them prepare dinner on a modest fireplace. At 5 pm they usually do a puja (blessing), which you are welcome to witness. There is a small donation box in the monastery where you can leave a contribution for the maintenance of this beautiful and friendly place.

Today is a very gentle day. Climb out of Nar Phedi and follow a winding path up a hill towards Nar. Pass a line of wonderfully painted, bamboo-topped chortens on the way into the ancient village. Arrive in the town around lunch time. Even though Nar is not far from the main Annapurna trail, it is rarely visited by trekkers and is about as picturesque as it gets.

Nar is bit more social and lively than Phu, and during the day you may find the village ‘square’ teeming with chatting women with their back-strap looms weaving wool fabric for rugs and blankets. With a few new teahouses built on the outskirts of Nar, you can stay in a comfortable lodge with an extensive menu.

The views from the Kang La Pass

Today is a long day, so get up before sunrise and head towards the Kang La Pass, which leads back onto the popular Annapurna Circuit. It is not a difficult pass, but it can be a long day as the effects of altitude will be felt. Once on top of the pass, you can enjoy an amazing view over Annapurna II, Gangapurna, and Tilicho Peak. The trail down starts off steep, but if you enjoy scree running you can have some fun! Stop for lunch on a plateau overlooking the peak, then continue towards Ngawal.

Ngawal, on the upper Pisang route of the Annapurna Circuit, is certainly very different from the ancient villages just visited. The lodges are big, the menus much more comprehensive and there will be Wifi and phone signals in most lodges.

As you descend more than 2,000 meters from the pass, the weather warms up and the scenery becomes greener. Set off early for the final stretch of your trek to reach Pisang. The trail is wide and comfortable, passing a picturesque lake just outside the village. Take a brief break for a snack in Pisang before boarding a four-wheel drive vehicle back to Besisahar. Once there, you can relax and stay in a comfortable hotel.

The drive back to Kathmandu takes around five hours. Enjoy a hot shower and the luxuries of the city once again! Spend the afternoon shopping for souvenirs in Thamel, or just relaxing.

It’s time to say goodbye to this energetic city as your stay in Kathmandu draws to an end and starts your journey home or to your next location.