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Mera and Island Peak Climbing
Trip Code:
Climbing
Max. Altitude:
(6,476 m / 21,247 ft)
Duration:
25 Days
Transportation:
Flight
Activity:
Trekking/Climbing
Difficulty:
difficulty
Accommodation:
Hotel, Tea House & Tented camp
Region:
Khumbu region
Arrival On:
Lukla
Departure From:
Lukla
Highlights
- Experience breathtaking views of the Himalayas, including Everest and Lhotse, on your way to Lukla.
- Trek through lush forests, traditional Sherpa villages, and along the Hinku Valley, offering spectacular views of Mera Peak and other Himalayan giants.
- Reach the summit of Mera Peak (6,476m), the highest trekking peak in Nepal, with panoramic views of Everest, Kanchenjunga, Makalu, and Cho Oyu.
- Conquer Island Peak (6,189m), one of the most sought-after climbs in the Khumbu region, with stunning views of the surrounding peaks.
- Cross the challenging Amphu Lapcha La Pass (5,845m), a highlight of the expedition offering incredible vistas of the Himalayas.
- Benefit from carefully planned acclimatization days and ice climbing training to ensure a safe and successful ascent.
- Visit traditional Sherpa villages like Ningsow, Pangboche, and Chukkung, and experience the local hospitality and rich culture.
- Trek through Makalu Barun National Park, spotting wildlife such as red pandas, Himalayan tahr, and various bird species.
- Throughout the journey, enjoy stunning views of towering peaks like Everest, Lhotse, Makalu, and Cho Oyu.
- Retrace your steps through Sherpa villages and serene forests, ending with a scenic flight back to Kathmandu.
Overview
The Mera and Island Peak Climbing Expedition offers climbers a thrilling adventure deep into the heart of the Everest region, where they can enjoy breathtaking views, technical climbing challenges, and cultural immersion. These two trekking peaks—Mera Peak (6,476m / 21,247ft) and Island Peak (6,189m / 20,305ft)—serve as perfect introductions to Himalayan mountaineering. Moreover, this expedition also takes adventurers through remote Sherpa villages, pristine valleys, and high mountain passes. As a result, they can experience the untouched beauty of Nepal’s Himalayas while simultaneously learning about the rich history and culture of the local communities.
Mera Peak was first summited in 1953 by a British expedition led by Col. Jimmy Roberts and Sen Tenzing. Consequently, it became the highest permitted trekking peak in Nepal and now offers some of the best panoramic views of the world’s five highest peaks: Everest, Lhotse, Makalu, Cho Oyu, and Kanchenjunga. To reach Mera Peak, climbers trek through the remote Hinku Valley. This untouched region, isolated from the main Everest trail, provides a serene and less crowded experience, which many trekkers appreciate.
In contrast, Island Peak, originally known as Imja Tse, received its name “Island Peak” in 1951 by British mountaineers, who saw it as an island floating in a sea of ice. Additionally, climbers first summited Island Peak in 1953 as part of the preparations for the first successful Everest ascent. Situated near Chhukung Valley, Island Peak offers a popular challenge for climbers looking to gain technical mountaineering experience before attempting higher summits like Everest or Lhotse.
The journey to these peaks takes climbers through diverse landscapes, each with its unique history and culture. The trek begins in Lukla, the gateway to Everest, which Sir Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay developed after their historic 1953 Everest ascent. The Sherpa people, who dominate this region, have a long history as Himalayan traders and mountaineering guides, and their presence enriches the trekking experience.
As climbers make their way to Mera Peak, they wind through the Hinku Valley, a remote and pristine area that very few trekkers visit. Historically, yak herders and traders used this valley to cross into Tibet. Today, it remains an untouched paradise, with small settlements like Kothe and Thangnak. These places offer climbers a chance to experience the traditional Sherpa way of life.
After summiting Mera Peak, climbers pass through Seto Pokhari and Amphu Lapcha La Pass (5,845m / 19,176ft) to enter Chhukung Valley, which leads toward Island Peak. This region, once a grazing area for yaks, has now become an important route for mountaineers heading toward Island Peak and Lhotse. Along the way, climbers experience dramatic changes in the landscape and culture, enriching their overall experience.
The bustling town of Namche Bazaar stands as the commercial and cultural hub of the Everest region. In the past, traders used this town as an important center for goods like salt and wool between Nepal and Tibet. Today, it serves as a popular stop for trekkers and climbers, offering insights into the Sherpa way of life, monasteries, and local markets. The town has a vibrant atmosphere and provides a welcome respite for adventurers.
Overall, the Mera and Island Peak Climbing Expedition offers more than just a physical challenge. It provides a cultural journey through historical trade routes, remote valleys, and traditional Sherpa settlements. In conclusion, this adventure combines mountaineering thrills with a deep cultural immersion in Nepal’s Himalayan communities, making it an unforgettable experience.
Itinerary
Upon arrival at Kathmandu’s Tribhuvan International Airport, Lhasso Adventure representative will warmly welcome you and transfer you to your hotel. After check-in, take some time to rest, freshen up, and enjoy a meal. In the evening, our guides will provide a briefing on the journey ahead, followed by team introductions and discussions. Later, we’ll head out for a welcome dinner at a local restaurant to experience authentic Nepali cuisine.
A scenic 35-minute flight to Lukla offers breathtaking views of the Himalayas, including Everest and Lhotse. After landing, we begin our trek through rhododendron and pine forests. The trail consists of gradual ascents and descents, with a suspension bridge crossing over the Handi Khola. We continue along forested paths before reaching Paiya, a small Sherpa village with stunning mountain views. Overnight in Paiya.
Today’s trek takes us through lush forests and across several ridges. We ascend steadily to Khari La Pass, where we are rewarded with panoramic views of the Dudh Koshi Valley. After descending, we trek through bamboo forests and terraced fields before reaching Pangkongma, a beautiful settlement with traditional Sherpa homes. Overnight in Pangkongma.
Following steep trails, we trek through dense rhododendron and oak forests, home to diverse wildlife. The trail alternates between ascents and descents, with occasional clearings offering spectacular views of Mera Peak. After passing through small settlements, we arrive in Ningsow, a peaceful village surrounded by high hills. Overnight in Ningsow.
We enter the remote Makalu Barun National Park, a protected area rich in biodiversity. The trail takes us through lush vegetation, crossing several streams and narrow ridges. As we progress, we may spot red pandas, Himalayan tahr, and various bird species. After a mix of uphill and downhill sections, we reach Chhatra Khola, a scenic riverside stop. Overnight in Chhatra Khola.
The trail follows the Hinku Valley, passing through dense pine and juniper forests. We cross wooden bridges over glacial streams and trek along the riverbank, with stunning views of Mera Peak becoming more prominent. The terrain gradually changes as we ascend to Kothe, a small settlement where we rest for the night. Overnight in Kothe.
We continue trekking along the Hinku Valley, following a steady ascent. As we gain altitude, the landscape becomes more rugged, with fewer trees and more glacial moraines. The route passes through yak pastures and stone-walled fields before reaching Thangnak, a summer grazing area for yaks with spectacular views of Kusum Kanguru and Mera Peak. Overnight in Thangnak.
To adjust to the high altitude, we take a rest day in Thangnak. A short acclimatization hike to a nearby viewpoint helps our bodies adapt while offering breathtaking panoramic views of surrounding peaks. We also explore the nearby Sabai Tsho glacial lake. Overnight in Thangnak.
The trail ascends steadily through a moraine-covered valley, offering magnificent views of glacial ice formations. We cross streams formed by melting glaciers and navigate rocky terrain before reaching Khare, the base camp for Mera Peak. Here, we prepare for the summit attempt and conduct equipment checks. Overnight in Khare.
Another acclimatization day allows us to rest and practice climbing techniques. Our climbing guides conduct a training session on ice climbing, rope techniques, and safety procedures, ensuring that we are well-prepared for the ascent. Overnight in Khare.
A challenging day as we ascend steep glacial slopes toward high camp. Using crampons and ice axes, we carefully navigate crevassed terrain. As we reach high camp, we enjoy a stunning sunset over Everest, Lhotse, and Makalu. Overnight at high camp.
A pre-dawn start for our summit push. We follow a gradual incline before tackling the final steep section leading to the summit of Mera Peak. At the top, we are rewarded with breathtaking views of Everest, Kanchenjunga, Makalu, and Cho Oyu. After celebrating our achievement, we descend to Kongma Dingma. Overnight in Kongma Dingma.
A contingency day to accommodate any unforeseen delays due to weather or altitude-related issues. Overnight in Kongma Dingma.
The trek continues through the remote and rarely visited Honku Valley, offering stunning views of towering peaks and pristine glacial lakes. The landscape becomes barren and rugged as we reach Seto Pokhari, a sacred glacial lake known for its crystal-clear waters. Overnight in Seto Pokhari.
We trek deeper into the remote wilderness, following a high-altitude route with steep ascents. As we approach Amphu Lapcha La Base Camp, we get closer to the towering pass that connects the Honku Valley with the Everest region. Overnight at base camp.
We begin early to tackle the challenging Amphu Lapcha La Pass. The ascent involves scrambling over icy and rocky sections. From the top, we are rewarded with breathtaking views of Island Peak, Lhotse, and Makalu. The descent leads us to Chhukung, a small settlement in the Everest region. Overnight in Chhukung.
A short trek to Island Peak Base Camp, where we prepare for our second summit attempt. We conduct training sessions on climbing techniques and use of equipment. Overnight at base camp.
A challenging ascent to Island Peak’s summit, offering breathtaking views of Everest, Lhotse, and surrounding peaks. After celebrating our achievement, we descend to Chhukung. Overnight in Chhukung.
This extra day serves as a contingency in case of unfavorable weather or any unexpected delays during the Island Peak summit attempt. If everything goes as planned, this day can be used for rest and exploration in Chhukung. You may take short hikes around the area, visit local teahouses, or interact with fellow climbers and trekkers. Overnight in Chhukung.
After the challenging climbs of Mera and Island Peaks, we begin our descent to lower elevations. The trail follows an easy downhill path through alpine meadows and yak pastures. We pass through Dingboche, a major stop on the Everest Base Camp trek, before continuing towards Pangboche. This village is home to one of the oldest monasteries in the region, said to house a sacred relic of a Yeti scalp. We take some time to explore the monastery before settling into our teahouse for the night. Overnight in Pangboche.
Descending further, we re-enter lush forests of rhododendron and pine, enjoying views of Ama Dablam, Everest, and other surrounding peaks. We pass through Tengboche, famous for its iconic monastery, where we can stop for a short visit and soak in the spiritual atmosphere. From here, we make our way to Namche Bazaar, the vibrant hub of the Khumbu region. After days in remote high-altitude areas, Namche feels lively with its bakeries, shops, and cafés. Overnight in Namche Bazaar.
Our final trekking day takes us back through dense forests, crossing high suspension bridges over the Dudh Koshi River. We pass through Phakding before making the gradual climb back to Lukla. As we arrive, we celebrate the completion of our incredible expedition with the team. It’s a perfect time to reflect on the journey and express gratitude to the local guides and porters who made the trek possible. Overnight in Lukla.
Trekking Distance :
18 km
Trekking Duration :
7-8 Hours
An early morning flight takes us back to Kathmandu, offering one last aerial view of the Himalayas. Upon arrival, you are transferred to your hotel, where you can rest and refresh. The rest of the day is free for exploring Kathmandu, shopping for souvenirs, or visiting cultural landmarks such as Swayambhunath (Monkey Temple) or Durbar Square. In the evening, we enjoy a farewell dinner, celebrating the completion of our adventure. Overnight in Kathmandu.
A reserve day in case of flight delays from Lukla due to unpredictable mountain weather. If unused, you can explore Kathmandu’s UNESCO heritage sites, visit Thamel for last-minute shopping, or relax at a spa. This extra day ensures a stress-free experience before your departure. Overnight in Kathmandu.
After an incredible journey through the Himalayas, it’s time to say goodbye. Depending on your flight schedule, you may have time for last-minute shopping or sightseeing in Kathmandu. Our team will transfer you to Tribhuvan International Airport for your departure flight home, marking the end of this unforgettable adventure.
Equipment
Here is a detailed list of the essential equipment required for the Mera and Island Peak Climbing Expedition, having the right gear is essential for both safety and success. Proper equipment ensures you are prepared for the challenges of high-altitude trekking and technical climbing. Regardless of experience level, investing in quality gear and understanding its use is crucial. The right equipment can make the difference between a smooth, enjoyable journey and a difficult ordeal. With the proper gear, you can enhance your safety and fully appreciate the stunning landscapes and exhilarating experiences this adventure offers.
Climbing Equipment
- Mountaineering boots
- Crampons
- Ice axe
- Harness
- Helmet
- Ascender (Jumar)
- Carabiners
- Prusik cords
- Trekking poles
- Belay device
Clothing
- Thermal base layer
- Fleece jacket
- Down jacket
- Softshell jacket and pants
- Waterproof shell pants
- Waterproof shell jacket
Gloves
- Liner gloves
- Insulated gloves
- Expedition mittens
Headwear & Eyewear
- Balaclava
- Buff or neck gaiter
- Sun hat
- Ski goggles
- Glacier sunglasses
- Wool or fleece beanie
Sleeping Gear
- Sleeping bag
- Sleeping Pad
Footwear
- Trekking boots
- Gaiters
- Camp shoes
- Mountaineering socks
Backpacks & Bags
- Expedition backpack
- Day Pack
- Dry bags
Accessories & Miscellaneous
- Headlamp
- Energy snacks
- Water bottles (Nalgene) & Thermos
- Water purification tablets
- Sunscreen & lip balm
- Toiletries & wet wipes
- Hand warmers & foot warmers
- First Aid kit
- Trekking towel
Documents & Permits
- Valid passport
- Climbing permits
- National Park entry permits
- Travel insurance
- Khumbu Municipality permit
FAQs
Mera and Island Peak are both considered challenging trekking peaks. While technical skills are not required for Mera Peak, Island Peak involves some technical climbing. Prior trekking experience and basic mountaineering skills are beneficial for this expedition.
The best seasons are spring (March to May) and autumn (September to November) when the weather is stable, and the visibility is excellent. These months offer favorable climbing conditions with lower chances of snowfall and storms.
Previous trekking experience at high altitudes is recommended, but beginners can attempt this climb with proper preparation. Island Peak requires basic mountaineering skills, such as using an ice axe, crampons, and fixed ropes. Pre-expedition training or an introductory mountaineering course is highly beneficial.
The entire expedition takes 25 days, including acclimatization, summit attempts, and buffer days for weather delays.
Mera Peak Summit – 6,476m (21,247ft), Island Peak Summit – 6,189m (20,305ft), and Amphu Lapcha La Pass – 5,845m (19,176ft).
Training should include cardiovascular exercises, strength training, and hiking with a backpack to improve endurance. Practicing at high altitudes or taking an introductory mountaineering course is highly recommended.
You will need the following permits: Mera Peak Climbing Permit, Island Peak Climbing Permit, Makalu Barun National Park Entry Permit, Sagarmatha National Park Entry Permit, and Local (Khumbu) Municipality Permit
Accommodation includes teahouses/lodges along the trekking route. In Kathmandu, you will stay in a hotel, while at higher altitudes (Mera Peak High Camp and Island Peak Base Camp), camping is required.
Teahouses offer a variety of meals, including Dal Bhat (rice and lentils), noodles, pasta, soups, eggs, and Tibetan bread. At higher camps, meals are prepared by our expedition team.
Amphu Lapcha La Pass (5,845m) is one of the most challenging and technical passes in the Everest region. It requires fixed rope climbing, glacier crossing, and steep descents.
Yes, altitude sickness is a concern. The itinerary includes acclimatization days to reduce the risk. Hydration, a slow ascent, and proper acclimatization help in preventing altitude sickness.
Electricity is available in most teahouses but may have an additional charge. Wi-Fi is available in lower regions but becomes limited and expensive at higher altitudes.
We include buffer days for weather delays. In emergencies, helicopter evacuation is possible (travel insurance covering high-altitude rescue is required).
Yes, travel insurance covering high-altitude trekking, climbing, medical emergencies, and helicopter evacuation is mandatory.
You can contact us directly for booking and further details. Early booking is recommended to secure permits and logistics.
If you have any more specific questions or need further details, feel free to ask!
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